Smoke, Spice, and Autumn Heat at Colita

Late October in South Minneapolis calls for shelter from the brisk winds sweeping across the lakes, and there is no better hearth to retreat toward than Colita. Perched on the corner of 54th and Penn, Daniel del Prado’s homage to Mexican wood-fired barbecue feels especially transportive as the autumn chill settles over the Twin Cities. Stepping inside, the hum of the dining room and the aroma of white oak embers and toasted masa immediately reset the evening. Everything here pivots around smoke, char, and acidity. The kitchen’s dedication to an entirely gluten-free menu is pulled off with such finesse that you hardly register the technical feat. Crisp tostadas arrive piled high with bluefin tuna dressed in fermented serrano, while wood-roasted mushrooms rest in a rich, silken broth brightened with epazote. For something deeply comforting against the October night, the smoked beef brisket barbacoa—tender, melting, and paired with warm heirloom corn tortillas and dark salsa negra—demands center stage. Colita’s bar program deserves equal reverence. Driven by house-fermented bases and clarified spirits, the drinks offer a razor-sharp carbonation that slices cleanly through the savory richness of the hearth. Order a mezcal-laced pour crowned with its trademark fragrant smoke bubble, or lean into a glass of fizzy pineapple tepache before wrapping up with golden churros tossed in cinnamon sugar. It is an energetic, convivial dining room that captures South Minneapolis hospitality at its most vibrant. Snag a seat along the curving bar or settle into a lush green banquette; either way, Colita delivers pure, soul-warming refuge.